Of Greens and Gossip: A Mountain Tale of Female Sociality and Edible Biodiversity
Thomas Hoy
5/17/23
In a world where women's roles have been systematically bound by domestic expectations and societal norms, it is within the simple act of foraging in the verdant mountains of West Virginia that an act of rebellion and resilience unfolds. Here, in the heart of one of the world's most biologically diverse hardwood systems, women have been agents of ancestral knowledge, finding freedom not in the confines of the hearth but in the wild. Central to this narrative is a humble yet potent wild onion—the Ramp, around which women have crafted communities, fostered biodiversity, and resisted societal norms. This essay explores how the annual gathering and processing of Ramps enable women to embody matriarchal power, preserve cultural heritage, and resist oppressive social norms, showcasing their profound role in sustaining both community and environment.
This tale is one of female camaraderie, community, and connection to the land, where the simple act of gathering greens becomes a social event. The story of Carrie Lou Jarrell and her friends serves as a testament to this, as they gather to pick greens and revel in the companionship and lively conversation. The article reveals that this kind of gathering was "the big deal when everybody used to go green picking" and such talk was "one means of crafting locality" (qtd. in Library of Congress, n.d.).
From the Ramp House, where culinary mishaps and botanical musings serve as fodder for laughter, to the dense forests where the hunt for the smelly yet desirable Ramp unites women in an olfactory adventure, the community’s love for their environment and its gifts are evident. The women's humor is highlighted in the article with the recounting of an incident where "Violet Dickens once mistook sassafras tea for bacon grease and poured it over the frying ramps" (qtd. in Library of Congress, n.d.).
The Ramp is not just a plant; it is an icon of cultural resilience. Despite its notorious smell, its gathering and consumption have become a form of resistance against societal norms, a delicious form of backtalk. The struggle between the Ramps' pungent odor and attempts to quell it becomes a source of amusement and pride, a badge of honor to be worn by the people who love them. The odor of the Ramps can be described as "the country backtalking the city, the improper backtalking propriety" (qtd. in Library of Congress, n.d.).
Beyond the social, the interplay between nature and the community holds profound ecological significance. The mixed mesophytic forest, a treasure trove of biodiversity, is not just a product of natural forces; it is a testament to generations of human interaction. As the Library of Congress explains, the forest is "integral to a cultural landscape that has taken shape over many generations" (qtd. in Library of Congress, n.d.). Specifically, it is the women of the mountains who have made a crucial impact on this biodiversity, preserving and enhancing it through the passed-down knowledge of their ancestors. This active interaction between women and the environment is a key factor in sustaining the forest's biodiversity, underscoring the role of women as guardians of their local environment and the keepers of ancestral wisdom.
As the women debate the best ways to consume these wild onions, the Ramp’s folkloric reputation as a health tonic is validated by science. Packed with vitamin C and other health-enhancing compounds, Ramps do indeed bring benefits to their consumers. The Library of Congress affirms that "ramps have long been recommended for their germicidal and toning effects" and are "higher in vitamin C than oranges" (qtd. in Library of Congress, n.d.). Perhaps the Ramps most significant contribution is the role they play in curing the cabin fever that sets in after a long winter, beckoning people into the fresh mountain air to hunt for this smelly treasure.
